Via delle Repubbliche Marinare » Pannello
di Diodoro Cossa » Piazza Municipio
» Supportico S. Andrea » Cappella
di S. Anna la Piccola » Largo Filippo
Augustariccio » via dei Prefetturi » Chiesa
di S. Anna » Chiesa
di S. Maria Maggiore » Chiesa
dell’Addolorata » Salita Bonelli
» via S. Simone » salita A. Tirabassi » Chiesa
di S. Lucia » Supportico Rua »
Piazza Spirito Santo » Ruderi
della Chiesa di S. Spirito » Palazzo
Castriota » via F. M. Pansa »
via Ercolano Marini » Chiesa
del Carmine » vico dei Pastai »
via Mastalo Duca » salita Ruggiero II » Chiesa
di S. Giuseppe » Piazza dei Dogi
The Tourist Office where we now find ourselves is
housed in the famous Benedictine monastery of the Sacred Trinity
that dates from the fifteenth century, today called St. Benedict’s
Palace, also situated in these premises are the post office, the
Town Hall and the Communal Library…
Outside the entrance to the Tourist Office we take
Via delle Repubbliche Marinare until we reach The
Ceramic Panel
Designed in 1968 by Diodoro Cossa, it depicts in a
series of scenes the most important moments in the history of Amalfi.
The story opens at the top left, with the scene of the Roman refugees
on the heights of Scala in the IV century; followed by the foundation
of the City; the building of the ships and the beginnings of commerce;
the diplomatic and legal activities of the Amalfi people in the
Mediterranean basin. On the lower level the age of opulence with
the construction of important buildings including the magnificent
cloister; and the arrival from Constantinople of the relics of St.
Andrew; the era of decadence in the XIV century; the inventiveness
of the Amalfi people with the invention of the mariner’s compass
by Flavio Gioia, the production of hand-made paper and the cultivation
of lemons on the characteristic system of terraces; the story finishes
with a typical horse drawn carriage that takes a young couple on
a sight-seeing trip around the town, symbol of renewal and a story
that continues…
After the panel we go left to the Piazza Municipio
also called “Campolillo”, the ancient quarter of St.
Angelo intra Moenia ( within the walls).
On our right is the Church of St. Mary of the Annunciation, dated
1349, that contains paintings of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries. On the left is the entrance to the Town Hall and the
Civic Museum.
Immediately inside the entrance we find “The
Apocalypse of St. John the Baptist” work of Domenico
Morelli, the sketch for the mosaics on the façade of the
Cathedral in the renovation of 1891. Along the walls we can admire,
a portrait of the historian of Amalfi, Matteo Camera by Pietro Scoppetta
(1864-1927) an Amalfi- born artist exponent of the Posillipo school
of Macchiaoli (impressionists), and a painting of Flavio Gioia ,
a portrait of P.Scoppetta by one of his pupils. At the back of the
hall we find in a large wooden showcase examples of the “Tarì”,
the ancient money of Amalfi;
nautical instruments;
a rare printed copy of the “Pandette”
of Corpus Iuris Civilis of Giustiniano, the original of which was
plundered by the Pisans in 1135 and is now held in the Library Laurenziana
in Florence. In the showcase we can also see a precious Codice
Foscariniano, drawn up in the XVII century, and presented
to the City of Amalfi in 1929, by Benito Mussolini who purchased
it in Vienna. The volume includes the “Chronicon Amalfitanum”,
the “Chronica omnium Archiepiscoporum Amalphitanorum”,
the “Consuetudines Civitatis Amalfie”, and the most
important the “Tabula de Amalpha”,, the first international
marine code, that contains the 66 terms of contract of the inhabitants
of Amalfi between the XI and XIV centuries….
Behind the showcase is the antique banner
of the city, that is symbolized as “ a woman richly dressed
in brocade”, in the cupboards nearby are the costumes
of the Ancient Maritime Republic, worn on occasion of the
Historical Regatta of the four Ancient Maritime Republics. The rowing
competition between Amalfi, Pisa, Genoa and Venice, who alternately
host the event yearly in the first week of June…
On leaving the building, on the northern side of the
square we find the ancient domus Campolillo,
an aristocratic residence built in the XI century, and altered in
XIII, it has an interesting entrance hall with a vault in the form
of a cross…
Entering the narrow passage of St. Andrea, on our
left we find the entrance to the Communal Library “ Pietro
Scoppetta”, this also houses the “Amalfi
Centre of History and Culture”. A public cultural society,
the Centre was created in 1975 to promote the study of the territory,
and this important mission is achieved by conventions on local history
and exhibitions of documents, and the availability of over 3700
volumes manuscripts and ancient printed matter that has an association
with local history and culture….
A few paces ahead and we find the secondary entrance
to the Cathedral of St. Andrew, which
we pass by following the narrow passage S.Andrea
we also pass the little Chapel
of St. Anna, also called “ the dark one” from
the sombre tones of the painting that adorns the altar ( it depicts
St. Anna and the Madonna as a child).
We arrive in the Largo Filippo Augustariccio, which
was called in the Middle- Ages Campo de Cinnamellis, where the spice
merchants plied their trade, now we follow via dei Prefetturi…
Ahead of us we find the ancient Tribunal
of the Piccolomini Dukes, today an old peoples home, the
Chapel of St. Anna (the Great)
on the ground floor of the fourteenth century Mansion
Bonito, now we move on into Largo S.Maria Maggiore and the
Church of St. Mary Major with its
beautiful Moorish bell tower.
Founded by Duke Mansone I in 986 but extensively renovated
in the baroque period, it holds many painting,
the body of St. Felice and a precious crib scene (Presepe) of the
seventeenth century ,nearby the Church
of St. Mary Our Lady of Sorrows
Founded at the end of the XVIII century, it contains
a number of paintings of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries,
a marble statue of the XVI century depicting the Madonna
and Child; a late gothic bas-relief of the Crucifixion,
and a dead Christ of the renaissance
period. The Church is seat of the Arch-confraternity of the same
name, founded in 1777…
The above mentioned confraternity organizes the Vespers
of Holy week, the moving procession of Battenti,
the white –hooded men who carry in procession the “Mysteries”,
symbol of the passion and death of Christ. They
open the “Way of the Cross” on Maundy Thursday,
a sad procession that in the roads of the town re-enact the stages
of the capture and passion of Christ. On Good Friday there is the
“ Funeral procession of Good Friday”,
that in the flickering pale light of torches escort the seventeenth
century statue of Our Lady of Sorrows and the dead Christ…
There is complete silence, broken only by the voices of the choir
(music and words by the local musician Antonio
Tirabassi, 1882-1947) that evoke the desperation of the Divine
Mother..
Straight ahead we find Salita Bonelli which we climb
until we reach via S.Simone, passing through the interesting alleys
of this ancient ward Rione S. Simone,
after about a hundred metres we descend the narrow
steps of via Tirabassi where halfway down there is the little
church of St. Lucia, of the XII century…
At the bottom of the steps we find ourselves in the
middle of Ruga Nova, the ancient passage way that before the river
was covered at the end of the XIII century, was the only road that
crossed the centre of the town…
Directly ahead we come to Piazza
Santo Spirito
and the characteristic fountain
“Capa’ e Ciuccio”( Donkeys head), so-called
because the asses once used for the transport of iron from the iron-works
in the Valley stopped to drink there, we look around the square
…
Originally called “De li Grassi” , this
small square was once the extreme limit of the town centre and the
Porta Hospitalis ( hospital gate)
, barred the entrance, so called because the hospital of St. Maria
Cruciferarum was founded there in 1213 by Cardinal Pietro Capuano.
On the left of the square, on a high grey wall, we
can see entwined arches, the remains
of the cloister of the two hundreds that was part of the Church
of the Holy Ghost, under the patronage of the paper manufacturers.
Further down the road is the entrance to Castriota
Palace which we enter…
This belonged in the XV and XVII centuries to the
noble Albanian family Castriota – Eskanderburg, the most interesting
part of the building is on the first floor, in the internal entrance
hall there are two excellent frescoes by
Ignazio Lucibello , pupil of Scoppetta. They were painted
in the first thirty years of the last century and depict : “The
speech of Roger the Norman to the Amalfi people and the taking of
Jerusalem”. In the front there are the knights of St. John
of Jerusalem , the hospital order founded by friar Gerardo Sasso
in around 1113, that has since become the Sacred Order of the Knights
of Malta…
Passing through a door situated on the next floor
we arrive in Piazzale Campo and straight ahead along via Francesco
Maria Pansa until the ruins of the ancient
Convent of St. Nicholas (a chapel with an entrance that has
a vault in form of a cross). Further ahead,
passing the Vicolo dei Pastai, we arrive in via Mastalo
Duca,
where we can see a series of majestic mansions
of the nobility of the XI-XII centuries, and at the end of
the covered passage on the right, the fifteenth century Chapel
of St. Giuseppe de’ Castriota…
A few paces ahead and we arrive in the interesting
Piazza dei Dogi, originally called Iron-workers Square because the
smiths plied their trade there…
A magnificent example of a medieval square, there
were once four churches here, as we can see from the remains of
the Church of SS. Quaranta Martiri on the western side and also
a part beside the great windows of the Ancient Arsenal on the opposite
side. On the left hand side of the square a narrow passage leads
us to Piazza Duomo.
The grand mansion on the corner with a marble column incorporated
is the ancient Palace of the Piccolomini,
the name of the dukes of Sienna who where the feudal Dukes of Amalfi
from 1461 to 1568. This palace is also famous because of the artists
and writers who have stayed there and also as scene of the tragic
story of Giovanna d’Aragona
…
Our first sight-seeing walk finishes in this magnificent
square..
|